There’s a pervasive Hemingwayness in Havana that’s hard to ignore. He had not one, but two favourite bars – La Bodeguita del Medio was his favourite mojito bar – so of course I had to try one – Then Floridita was his favourite daquiri bar – where he demanded a less girly version of the…
How to pass for a Guatemalan
Step number one: buy a poncho – Step number two: take up salsa – … but don’t try to take a photo and follow your teacher’s instructions, or you end up making a complete mess of both activities. The lovely Martin was a tiny, swivel-hipped salsa god, who only winced slightly as I crushed his…
Swerving around cows
What is it with India and cows? They’re everywhere, and nobody takes any notice. It’s completely normal to see a cow … … on a railway station platform – … wandering through the city centre – … having a quick kip in the road – … inspecting a rubbish pile – … and even on…
Yet another painful experience
In the interests of research, I tried many different types of massage on this trip – deep tissue, aromatherapy, Balinese, to name but a few. The strangest was the chakra unblocking head massage, which I had in the Royal Palace at Bundi. The masseuse flicked and scratched my head and pulled hard on chunks of…
I’ve seen the future …
… or at least I’ve peered murkily in the general direction, but the pollution-filled haze would have challenged even the oracle at Delphi to see anything clearly. The pollution in Delhi is appalling – a smelly, foggy haze hanging over the city. It’s just downright lucky, for all my blog readers, that I look so…
Indulging my inner hedonist in Rajasthan
If you want a taste of a royal lifestyle, Rajasthan’s the place to go. It seems that there are as many royal palaces and forts in Rajasthan as there are branches of McDonalds in England; every little town has at least one. Very fittingly, the word Rajasthan means ‘land of kings’, and all the black…
An Indian wedding – day three …
The reception on the final day was the most Western event of the whole wedding, and Western dress was the order of the day, so there were no more anxious moments, anticipating unravelling saris. We started with what is usually called ‘pre-drinks’ – and which I thought would be the only drinks at a dry…
An Indian wedding – day two …
Day two was actually straight after day one – but due to travelling and intermittent Wifi, this post has been languishing in my notebook for a while. Day two started for us with a ceremony for the groom, attended by his family and friends, to ask Ganesh to bless the marriage. Hursh, the groom, sat…
An Indian wedding – day one …
It was very exciting to be invited to a wedding in India, so we packed our bags and headed off to Rajkot in Gujarat. Gujarat is a dry state, so – following instructions from the groom – we had to apply for alcohol permits before we left – With our Brits-abroad priorities firmly in place,…
A potential change of career
Kanazawa is a wonderful little town on the west side of Honshu. It’s wonderful for a number of reasons: firstly, it was the seat of an important feudal clan and so has many big houses, temples and shrines, secondly, it escaped bombing during the Second World War, and thirdly, it has one of the top-ranked…
My first experience of sumo
It was most definitely serendipity times two; firstly to discover that one of the six annual sumo tournaments in Japan is held in Nagoya, and secondly to find that it would take place during my stay. I felt that there must be a ticket with my name on it – but just to make sure,…
University life in Japan
Before I arrived, I wasn’t sure how I would feel about teaching in a women’s university. How archaic, I thought, to have such institutions in the 21st Century in a first world country. But now that I’ve experienced just how much of a man’s world it is in Japan, and how women are supposed to…
Nara – too much venison walking around uncooked
Nara was once the capital of Japan. In 710 AD it became the country’s first permanent capital city, losing the title to Kyoto 75 years later, due to the corruption of the Nara clergy … plus ça change, as we French speakers say. As it’s a city that’s so steeped in history and culture, I…
Osaka – home of the pot noodle
Osaka is famous for being the foodie capital of Japan, so I was surprised to learn that it is also the home of the pot noodle. It was a bit like discovering that Angel Delight is a popular dessert at the Dorchester, or that Raymond Blanc invented the turkey twizzler. Anway, once I knew that…
The Ginger Ninja
I’ve had quite a cultural weekend, one way and another. I went to Kyoto because I had a ticket to see a kabuki play at the Minamiza theatre, which is the home of kabuki. It’s a wonderful old building, which has been hosting kabuki performances for 400 years – – and I was pleased to…
Bears and eel chips
Shogun Ieyasu was a canny chap. When he became Shogun in 1603 he forced all the great lords to spend every second year with him in Edo, or Tokyo as it is now. This meant that they spent huge amounts of time and money travelling with their vast retinues along the road between Kyoto and…
A series of unfortunate events …
There’s a very strict code of conduct associated with being Japanese; they’re the greatest rule followers I’ve ever known. But unless you’ve grown up with these rules, it can be very difficult to a) remember them, or b) notice them in the first place. But I suppose that the good thing about being a foreigner…
Investigating the Nagoya food scene
Every country has its own love-it-or-hate-it foodstuff. In England it’s Marmite, in Malaysia it’s Durian, and in Japan the polarizing comestible is called natto. It’s made from fermented soya beans and, according to Wikipedia, ‘is an acquired taste because of its powerful smell, strong flavor and slimy, sticky texture.’ After coping with the smell of…
The philistine’s guide to Japanese culture
I’ve now done some reading up on Japanese culture and history, so I feel slightly less ignorant than I did a few weeks ago, when I went to the National Musuem. Ooh! It’s Morecambe and Wise, I thought – I now know that they are, in fact, 6th Century tomb figurines. And what I initially…
Tokyo food tours
I’ve come to appreciate, during my travels, that signing up for a food tour in a new place pays back dividends. The guide takes you to all sorts of wonderful hidden-away spots, explains the whole food scene and generally equips you with enough know-how to go solo afterwards. So when I got to Tokyo I…